Making the most of a backpacking trip through Europe

By Brian Wooddell
McClatchy Newspapers
Salt Lake Tribune
Article Last Updated:12/23/2006 01:13:47 PM MST

After months of planning and saving, there we were: Seven of us, three women and four men between 19 and 21, got off the planes and found our packs in the underbelly of Rome's Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino airport. For two weeks, we would travel and learn and explore Europe.
Right after a nap. Jet lag, it seemed, could temporarily kill any and all vacation excitement.
We were there to ''do Europe,'' and ''do'' it we did. Five cities in two weeks meant seeing everything as quickly as possible. When we flew home, we brought more than dirty laundry and sore feet. We realized why young adults have been backpacking across Europe for decades.
We had stories about swimming in the (frigid) Mediterranean Sea and being cursed at by an irate Italian man on the streets of Rome. We learned that tourists should always be ready to ''drop some euro'' for the W.C. and that chocolate cereal, which can be found in almost any grocery store, makes a great meal any time of the day. And we figured out that in Europe, ''old'' means something completely different from what it does in the United States.
Everywhere we stayed was clean and safe, and in several hostels, we managed to get a room of seven beds to ourselves. One night in a hostel, or a hotel with several bunk beds in each room, will cost about $20 a person. It's not private, but it provides a way to meet other backpackers.
Here's a taste of our trip to help like-minded travelers plan - if you want to go next summer, now is the time to start.

Rome, days 1-3:
* Where we stayed: M&J Hostel
* What we did right: We made ourselves get up early to see the city, even though we were tired, and we spent the extra 11 euros each to see Palatine Hill.
* What we did wrong: Food. We didn't know where to go or how much to spend, so our meals weren't very good, except for the one time we tried authentic Italian pizza. ''Molto bene!''
* What we saw: The Vatican, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Palatine Hill, the Colosseum, the Forum, the Spanish Steps, Villa Borghese
* Don't miss: Gelato (ice cream) in front of the Spanish Steps at dusk.
* Avoid: The metro. Downtown is small enough that walking isn't a problem, and the subway is way too crowded.

Venice, days 4-6:
* Where we stayed: Villa Dori (an inexpensive hotel)
* What we did right: We stayed outside the touristy part of Venice, so we were able to see typical Italian life.
* What we did wrong: This city is a huge tourist trap. Spend a day and a half at the most. We were there too long.
* What we saw: Islands of Torcello, Murano and Burano; the Grand Canal; San Michele Cemetery
* Don't miss: Torcello and its ancient church. It's one of the least-spoiled parts.
* Avoid: Gondolas. They're a rip-off at $80 plus tip.

Paris, days 7-9:
* Where we stayed: A church in central Paris
* What we did right: By staying in a church, we saved about $20 a person each night. Talk to your place of worship for contacts abroad.
* What we did wrong: We weren't there long enough to see Versailles and a few more museums. In addition, we didn't check to see when things were closed. The Musée d'Orsay (with its Monets and Renoirs), for example, wasn't open the day we tried to visit.
* What we saw: The Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Le Centre Pompidou, La Sainte-Chapelle, Sacré Coeur Basilica, Notre Dame Cathedral, La Grande Arche de la Defense
* Don't miss: The Eiffel Tower at night, La Sainte-Chapelle (near Notre Dame) or La Grande Arche at the far northwest end of the Champs- lysées.
* Avoid: The elevator to the top of the Eiffel Tower. If you take the stairs, you save money and time by avoiding the huge line.

Barcelona, days 10-11:
* Where we stayed: Sea Point Youth Hostel
* What we did right: We had been going nonstop, so we took time to relax on the beach.
* What we did wrong: We relaxed too much and didn't plan enough time to see parts of this great city, including the former Olympic venues.
* What we saw: The Mediterranean Sea, Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia, Parc Guell
* Don't miss: Parc Guell, an extensive park designed by Antoni Gaudi that sits on a hill. It provides an awesome view of the city.
* Avoid: Certain beachgoers. Beaches in Barcelona are clearly top-optional, and that isn't always a pleasant sight.

Madrid, days 12-14:
* Where we stayed: Hostal Metropol
* What we did right: Visited during the prince's wedding, so the whole city was clean and decorated to the hilt.
* What we did wrong: Visited the city during the prince's wedding, so security was extra tight, and the streets were clogged with tourists.
* What we saw: Parque del Buen Retiro, the Royal Palace, Museo del Prado
* Don't miss: Churros con chocolate. There's a shop near Plaza Mayor that sells this traditional Spanish snack of sweet bread sticks dipped in a mug of thick hot chocolate. Go there, and go often.
* Avoid: Having your passport stolen, missing your flight home and sitting for three hours in Madrid's American Embassy (true story).
In retrospect, my friends and I did nothing perfectly, and there are many things we'd change if we could go back. But because this was the first time any of us had been to Europe without Mom and Dad, we figure we did a pretty good job.
Planning your trip can be fun, and the Internet makes it a breeze.
* Many hostels have Web sites or are listed on sites such as www.hostels.com, which often includes prices, photos and online reservations. It's not a big deal, though, if you don't have reservations or don't know where to stay. Hostels are built for tourists, so they are usually well marked. You can always ask other groups of young travelers as well.
* Information on trains can be found through Rail Europe at www.raileurope.com. And you can always check out blogs and personal Web sites from people who've traveled Europe extensively and know the best ways to get around.
* As far as money, watch the exchange rates before your trip and budget accordingly. Almost everything costs more in Europe. Plan to spend $20-$30 a day for basic necessities, not including a fancy meal.
* If you plan early, things will go more smoothly. Remember: You're probably not coming back for a long time, so make the best of it.

On the Backpacking Trail

Sounds like bad news for all travel agencies. Just when they thought the whole country is on a booking spree for eight-day package tours, there is a new breed of Indian globetrotters packing their rucksacks to march on unexplored trails. The outcome — these not so well heeled travellers know every nook and corner of Rome, where to shop for edgy fashion in New York, the royal castles of Scotland, lesser-known exquisite cafes of Paris, the unexplored islands of Australia and, mysterious facts about the Dark Continent!

No doubt, they consider themselves explorers rather than travellers or tourists. These 21st century pathfinders are all set to redefine the traditional ways of Indian tourism. And excursionists like Reena Grewal, Dharmesh K, Mehar Mann, Minali Tolani and many others, share a firm belief that being a backpacker is the best way to travel. The idea of being a backpacker traveller may sound a bit odd since they all opted for it when they could have easily afforded a stay in a luxurious hotel, a 17-course menu and champagne cocktails to go with it all.

Reasons, Minali Tokani, a senior manger with Kotak Mahindra, “You can stay in a luxurious hotel, enjoy a spa, pop some champagne and do all that kind off stuff in your own country. But if you do the same at a foreign locale, then what’s the big deal?” And this thought prodded her, to throw a pair of jeans, some cheques, most importantly her passport into a bag and head of for Europe.

According to, Vaishali, a software developer, she was never a package-tour type of person, and always opted for the more challenging option, “Being a backpacker means, you don’t have to stick to any schedule. The world is yours, so just go and explore it!” she says. Concurs Dharmesh, who is into the restaurant business, “The thing I hate most about package tours is their promise about providing Indian food. Now, come on, when you’re visiting a foreign destination, the natural choice is to relish the local specialities.”

The idea of being a free spirit made Mehar Mann scout the streets of Rome, with only a Lonely Planet map for company. He stresses that meeting girls was also an underlying thought, which made him walk the same streets twice over. Adds Reena Grewal, who quit a cushy job in the United States to travel, “Being a backpacker means you get to see the small towns. Meet the local people and the best part is flexibility. I extended my stay for three days in a small hamlet in Ireland. Had I been on a package tour, I would have never got to enjoy these small things.”

Most backpackers do not have a fixed schedule or a budget, per say. They explore destinations at their own sweet pace. Nevertheless, Vaishali emphasises that one should chalk out a basic plan, “You should know what really interests you. Otherwise you’ll get lost, for everything is more exquisite than the previous attraction.”

Mehar points out the elemental prerequisite to be a backpacker, “Before you leave for any destination, do some research. This really helps because once you are there, you will be on your own.” That may sound a bit risky, but most backpackers live in hostels, dorms or sometimes at a hospitable native’s place. Dharmesh recalls, “I went to buy the local ingredients at a supermarket in Rome as we were preparing food on our own. There were other backpackers from across the globe and we shared a lot about food and business.”

Minali believes that the exposure she gets from such travels is incomparable. “You get to speak to strangers, not only
do you learn to rely on them you also realise the value of independence. It’s a bonhomie feeling.” For Reena, who did a backpacking trip Down Under, the high point was the thrill of swimming with dolphins. “The experience was worth it, had I been on a package tour, I would have got to see more of mankind than those lovely creatures,” she chuckles.

However, all backpackers have a piece of advice. Travelling light and living it up, will make your trip a success believes Dharmesh. Being not fussy and open about everything is the key, thinks Reena. “Back at home you may be used to having the whole house to yourself but at a dorm, you have to share bathrooms, food and perhaps everything. Being fussy will take you nowhere,” she adds.

Mehar insists that one should be friendly but alert, “In Rome, I’ve seen gypsies lifting people’s wallets. And with no interpreters things can go out of hand.” Vaishali dismiss such incidents as rare. “Life is an adventure and one should not miss the fact, that you get to interact with the whole world. Also at such times, you get to realise what your strengths and weaknesses are.”

Yogesh M Shah, a backpacker who has now set his own company Bacpackerco says, “ When I opted to be a backpacker, I could not find anyone to guide me. So when I came back, I thought we need to get organised and that is how the company came into existence.” He insists that this is more a passion than business for him. Today places like Cafe Mocha Backpackers Club and backpackerco.com provide a platform for like-minded travellers. Dharmesh adds, “I believe that all those who are doing their MBA’s from lesser known institutes should opt for such travels. I’m sure this will broaden their horizons.”

These urban nomads share a free spirit and the nerve to take the road less travelled. Minali sums it aptly, “For being a roadie you need a tough state of mind, otherwise check out some package tours.” So now that you know what the highs and lows of backpacking are, you could possibly consider doing at least one such trip in your lifetime and cherish that experience forever.